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Alternatively, you could opt for wraps, paninis and light bites at Barista, a chain of Wi Fi-enabled espresso bars with more than 20 outlets in Delhi alone, including a branch at N-16 Connaught Place (00 91 11 2335 6076;
Barista is also in Jaipur (00 91 1), in the mall opposite the Raj Mandir cinema, but here an excellent choice is the LMB restaurant on Johari Bazaar (00 91 1; where all the food is pure vegetarian.
This triangle has been dubbed "golden" for the extraordinary wealth of cultural and historical splendour on offer in each of the three cities.
Jaipur, capital of the largely desert state of Rajasthan, is home to some of Asia's best bazaars. For all its dirt, traffic and crowds, the Indian capital is a remarkably amiable entry-point to the nation.
Each class has its own code, which you'll need to know.
In addition, every train service is identified by a four-digit train number, quoted in the timetable, and every station is identified by its own alphabetic code - very important in cities such as Agra, where there is more than one large station.
Jaipur, as capital of Rajasthan, has a role as a commercial and administrative centre that has nothing to do with tourism, and a population of 2.5m.
To the south, British-built New Delhi is a fascinating contrast, radiating out from the boutiques and cafés of Connaught Place: here, the dusty alleys are replaced by broad, arrow-straight boulevards and four-square monuments.
Booking ahead is essential: you generally can't just turn up, buy a ticket and board.
Online booking is possible up to two months in advance at with some restrictions; see the useful explanation of how to do this at
At all of these, expect to pay around 150-300 rupees (roughly £1.75-3.50) for a full meal. Air India (020 7495 7950; British Airways (08; com), Jet Airways (08; and Virgin Atlantic (08; fly daily from London Heathrow non-stop to Delhi.
Another possible gateway is Amritsar, north-west of Delhi, with non-stop flights from Birmingham on Air India and Heathrow on Jet; the latter can do competitive "open-jaw" deals into one city and out of the other. You may find that getting from Delhi to Agra to Jaipur comprises the most evocative aspect of an Indian holiday.
India's Golden Triangle comprises the three most visited cities in the country's north-west - Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, which are all connected to each other by good road and rail links.